Cornsnakes are one of the easiest reptiles to keep as pets. Recommended by many as the ideal first reptile, corn snakes can be easily tamed and handled. They also are easily trained to eat frozen/thawed mice. Their needs are very simple and their natural environment is easy to duplicate.
First you'll need an aquarium. this can be just about any glass or plastic escape-proof container or aquarium for babies but keep in mind that they will quickly outgrow a ten gal. aquarium. Adult cornsnakes will need at least a 20 gal. long to feel comfortable. An escape- proof enclosure is just that...impossible for a snake to get out of. Placing rocks or bricks on top to contain them will not work! the lid must be lockable or have a strap around the whole cage. Even a small snake can use it's long body and wedge shaped head to obtain incredible amounts of leverage. The lid should be 1/8"screen or something that allows for lots of ventilation but with small enough holes that your snake can't get its nose started through them.
The issue of substrate is highly debatable. The most common is indoor/outdoor carpet but many people use sand, bark, wood shavings, or even newspaper. Whatever you choose, be aware when using under tank heat that more substrate=lower heat and vice versa.
Heat must be provided to one side of the cage. There are many products available including heat lamps, heat tape, heat pads, and heat rocks(not recommended). Use a reliable thermometer to ensure you are getting a daytime basking spot temp. of 82-90 degrees f. and an ambient or "cool side" temp. of 70-75 degrees f.. In most cases your home will stay warm enough at night that the heat can be turned off. A night time temperature drop is not necessary for corns, as long as they have a cool spot to retreat to if they get too hot, but many argue that it helps them to simulate a "wild" environment. If you do decide to turn the heat off at night-don't attempt to do it by hand! Use a timer, it's important that the heat (and light) be turned on and off at exactly the same time every day! A 12 hour on - 12 hour off schedule year round works fine unless you intend to breed.
Lighting, which is not necessary, can be provided with a heat lamp and a regular light bulb ( this can also be the heat source) or with a regular fluorescent lamp. Use a timer to control the light because it is important that it turns on/off at exactly the same time daily. U.V. bulbs are not necessary. Some say U.V. can improve a snake's color but some snakes, especially albinos, can actually be harmed by it.
A hiding spot should be provided at each end of the tank so your snake can thermoregulate properly or a long half-tube with one end in the hot spot provides a good temperature gradient for snakes to choose from without feeling vulnerable.
Feedings should occur every 5 to 7 days. Feed cornsnakes 1 or 2 mice or rats that are no bigger than 1 1/2 times the snakes girth per feeding. I highly recommend feeding frozen/thawed rodents to any snake that will comply because frozen mice are a lot cheaper, more convenient, and never bite back! To thaw them, just put them in a jug of warm (like your shower temp) water for about a half hour then pour off the water and repeat for another half hour. Drain the water then dry the mouse in a paper towel. Feed while the mouse is still warm in an empty, escape proof container. If you feed your snake in its regular enclosure you risk the snake equating your hand with food (eventually getting you bit) or accidentally ingesting its substrate.
First you'll need an aquarium. this can be just about any glass or plastic escape-proof container or aquarium for babies but keep in mind that they will quickly outgrow a ten gal. aquarium. Adult cornsnakes will need at least a 20 gal. long to feel comfortable. An escape- proof enclosure is just that...impossible for a snake to get out of. Placing rocks or bricks on top to contain them will not work! the lid must be lockable or have a strap around the whole cage. Even a small snake can use it's long body and wedge shaped head to obtain incredible amounts of leverage. The lid should be 1/8"screen or something that allows for lots of ventilation but with small enough holes that your snake can't get its nose started through them.
The issue of substrate is highly debatable. The most common is indoor/outdoor carpet but many people use sand, bark, wood shavings, or even newspaper. Whatever you choose, be aware when using under tank heat that more substrate=lower heat and vice versa.
Heat must be provided to one side of the cage. There are many products available including heat lamps, heat tape, heat pads, and heat rocks(not recommended). Use a reliable thermometer to ensure you are getting a daytime basking spot temp. of 82-90 degrees f. and an ambient or "cool side" temp. of 70-75 degrees f.. In most cases your home will stay warm enough at night that the heat can be turned off. A night time temperature drop is not necessary for corns, as long as they have a cool spot to retreat to if they get too hot, but many argue that it helps them to simulate a "wild" environment. If you do decide to turn the heat off at night-don't attempt to do it by hand! Use a timer, it's important that the heat (and light) be turned on and off at exactly the same time every day! A 12 hour on - 12 hour off schedule year round works fine unless you intend to breed.
Lighting, which is not necessary, can be provided with a heat lamp and a regular light bulb ( this can also be the heat source) or with a regular fluorescent lamp. Use a timer to control the light because it is important that it turns on/off at exactly the same time daily. U.V. bulbs are not necessary. Some say U.V. can improve a snake's color but some snakes, especially albinos, can actually be harmed by it.
A hiding spot should be provided at each end of the tank so your snake can thermoregulate properly or a long half-tube with one end in the hot spot provides a good temperature gradient for snakes to choose from without feeling vulnerable.
Feedings should occur every 5 to 7 days. Feed cornsnakes 1 or 2 mice or rats that are no bigger than 1 1/2 times the snakes girth per feeding. I highly recommend feeding frozen/thawed rodents to any snake that will comply because frozen mice are a lot cheaper, more convenient, and never bite back! To thaw them, just put them in a jug of warm (like your shower temp) water for about a half hour then pour off the water and repeat for another half hour. Drain the water then dry the mouse in a paper towel. Feed while the mouse is still warm in an empty, escape proof container. If you feed your snake in its regular enclosure you risk the snake equating your hand with food (eventually getting you bit) or accidentally ingesting its substrate.
